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Got this from muskie first
Basic Abu Reel Cleaning 101 For Newer Reels!!

Following is a basic step-by-step outline of breaking down; cleaning, lubing and reassembly of newer Abu Garcia bait casters with instant anti-reverse.

Before you get started, make sure you have the following tools and materials so you do not have to move until the reel is complete. Roll of paper towels, Abu Oil (my preference), Abu Grease (my preference), screwdrivers of various sizes and styles, pointed awl type tool, pliers, smaller needle nose, 18mm wrench (I believe that is the size) and a crescent wrench. Also a can of Reel Magic comes in handy sometimes. One sided razor blade and a toothbrush is also necessary.

First get your work area ready. Place a paper towel down in front of you as a workstation. Make sure that you are working in a well lit area just incase any small parts fall or go flying.

Now it is time for the actual work.

1. Remove the handle nut lock or nut cap. Both would have a small screw that goes into the handle.
2. Remove the handle nut.
3. CAREFULLY remove the C-clip that is on the top of the shaft. Without this off, the handle will not come off. WARNING: IF NOT REMOVED CAREFULLY, THE C-CLIP HAS A FLYING DISTANCE OF ¼ MILE. OKAY, SO IT CAN GO ACROSS THE ROOM, YOU GET THE POINT.
4. Remove the handle and the handle washer (thin curved metal washer between handle and drag star.
5. Remove drag star by turning back words and completely remove it. Keep all of the items removed so far together in one spot.
6. Thoroughly wipe down all parts removed so far with a paper towel and keep in one spot.
7. Loosen the three thumbscrews on the handle side plate and remove the whole plate assembly. (They will not come out of the plate)
8. Remove the spool and set aside
9. Remove the axle from the side plate if it is not out already. If it appears to be stuck tight, pull firmly with a pliers and it will come out.
10. Remove the 2 screws on the handle side plate.
11. Carefully remove the side plate and wipe ALL dirt, grease, oil, and grime from it. If necessary, spray a little Reel Magic on a paper towel and wipe the side plates off getting in all grooves on the sides. Use a paper towel to wipe out the A/R bearing that is permanently in the side plate if it looks to have excess oil/grease on it.
12. Remove the drive shaft that has the main gear on it and take the main gear off. If you have a newer reel with multiple drag washers, there should be no reason what so ever to replace the drag washers.
13. Wipe the main gear, black drag washers and the silver metal washers down well. They should not be oily or greasy when put back together.
14. Place one black washer on the shaft, then the main gear, then a black washer, then the round, silver washer, then a black washer, then a silver washer with 2 nipples, then a black washer then the top plate.
15. On top of the last washer, place the silver cylinder with the square inside down. (Look at both ends and you will see what I mean)
16. Take off the black position holder that has 2 thin metal arms.
17. Take off the pinion gear and its black holder. Pop the gear out and wipe both down well.
18. Take the clutch arm off and wipe off. This is one part that can wear. If you are having problems with the button not popping back out, this is probably the culprit. On the end that would be by the drive shaft there is a piece that sticks up. If it is showing brass and is rounded, it should be replaced. Inexpensive part.
19. Take the push button off and wipe off.
20. Take the bottom arm off and wipe off.
21. Wipe down the main plate of all oil and grease
22. Place the bottom arm back on
23. Now the push button
24. Now the clutch arm
25. Now the pinion gear and holder. Gear part up, beveled edge of holder down.
26. Place a small amount of OIL on the main post and then replace the drive shaft/main gear assembly
27. Take the grease and place a minimal amount of grease all the way around the main gear; too much is not good.
28. Replace the black position holder and make sure it snaps all the way down to the plate.
29. Place the side cover back on and put the 2 screws back in.
30. Place the 2 curved washers back on the drive shaft so they are curved towards each other and will spring.
31. Screw the star wheel back down
32. Replace the thin curved washer on the star curved down
33. Replace the handle
34. Carefully snap the c-clip back on
35. Put the nut on
36. Put the nut lock or cap (which ever your reel has) back on and set assembly aside
37. Remove 3 screws from palming side of reel
38. Remove side cover and wipe the inside the plate of any grease or oil. The plastic cog should also be wiped down well. If the cogwheel is held on with a c-clip, remove the clip and take the cog off and wipe down well. Place a drop of oil on the post and replace the cog and clip. If the cog does not have a clip, wipe it down well and place a couple drops of oil on the top of the cog.
39. If the reel has a clicker, remove the 2 rubber/plastic tall spacers that go on top of the clicker plate over the posts of the frame
40. Remove the clicker “moon” shape plate
41. Using a screwdriver, take the pawl cap off of the line guide on the frame and shake the pawl out.
42. On the frame on the palming side there is a thin, long lock that slides and locks onto 2 posts on the frame. Remove this
43. Slide the worm gear out
44. Remove the worm gear cover and the line guide
45. Wipe down all parts very, very well. Make sure that the inside of the worm gear cover is cleaned out well.
46. ALL grease and oil should be gone off of the worm gear.
47. If your reel has a plastic thumb rest, pop this off and brush down well. You will probably see a lot of grime, dirt and weeds built up on the underside.
48. Using the toothbrush, clean out the cross post of the frame that the line guide runs in, this is a trouble spot for people.
49. Slide the worm gear back into the cover and through the frame
50. Slide the line guide on making sure the top of the guide is running in the frame
51. Replace the locking clip that holds the worm gear in-place
52. Place the “moon” shaped clicker assembly on with the clicker are pointing towards the middle
53. Place the 2-plastic/rubber spacers over the posts that the clicker is on.
54. Replace the side plate and 3 screws
55. Replace the spool
56. Place only a single drop of oil on each of the 2 brake blocks and a drop or two of oil on the bearings in the end of the spool.
57. Place the axle in the handle side of the plate and press down firmly on the table or hard surface until it clicks in
58. Run a bead of OIL down the axle and replace in the spool. Slide the side plate onto the posts of the frame for fitting and tighten the thumb screws
59. Take the pawl and place it back into its proper position on the underside of the line guide. Make sure that it is properly in-place and not sticking out of the bottom.
60. Screw the pawl cap back on.
61. Run a bead of OIL, NOT GREASE, across the worm gear. Turn handle several times to get he line guide to move back and forth several times to work the oil in.

This is the quick run down of taking apart a reel, cleaning; lubing and getting it back together. There should not be any parts left over.
lambeau

Posted 6/14/2006 12:10 PM (#196311 - in reply to #196307)
Subject: RE: "How To" Clean and Service ABU GARCIA reels Quote Reply

Posts: 1351
10001001001002525
Location: Portage, WI Basic Facts To Help Keep Your Reel Going All Summer
With this job, I have the opportunity to speak with many people. In doing so, I have had a great number of questions asked of me regarding fishing reels and I was able to answer all of the questions and
hopefully shed some light on a few issues.

People say that Abu Garcia reels are not made like they use to be. Well, that is a yes and no answer. If you take off the plastic thumb rest on the new reels, they look pretty much the same as they did back in the early 1980’s. The insides went through a few basic changes, but nothing as far as what they are made out of. The brass gears are still brass and the fiber cogwheel is the same as what is was back in the 1970’s. The thumb rest is what is the big difference on the reels.

People are burning up worm gears and pawls on the newer reels because of weeds, dirt and grime. This builds up in the groove on the frame and the top of the line guide cannot move over as far as it needs to. In turn, the bottom is forced to continue to move and you groove your worm gear, put a flange on the side tooth of the worm gear, and ruin the pawl. This occurs on the reels with the thumb rest on them. The tolerance is much, much tighter with the thumb rest on as opposed to having it off. There is absolutely no reason to keep the thumb rest off though. Do as I suggested and that is go buy yourself a new toothbrush and replace your old one. Keep the old toothbrush in a zip lock bag with a bottle of the Abu OIL and you will eliminate your troubles. All you have to do is brush out the cross bar on the frame that the line guide runs in and you will be much, much happier. REMEMBER, IF YOU REPLACE A WORM GEAR, REPLACE THE PAWL AT THE SAME TIME; THIS IS A MUST!!!!!!!

Screaming reels is another problem that people complained about. When these reels are manufactured in Sweden they are greased more than oiled. They do this because the reels sit and the oil will leak out of the places it should be. This is evident on a new reel when you take the handle side plate assembly off and see the oil on it and the frame. This came from the oil on the bearing in the spool. The worm gear, cogwheel and main gears all have light grease on them. It is best to use oil on the worm gear and cogwheel when you are lubing it up, as it is not as thick and will operate smoothly. The oil will also attract less dirt and grime as well too.

Reels that stop engaging is a problem for some people. With as many reels that go out on the market, there may be a reel or two that slip through the cracks, but they overall are rare. On the newer reels the culprit is usually the clutch arm. This is a very easy and inexpensive fix. Clutch arms will eventually wear out. What really takes a toll on them is when people engage their reel before the bait hits the water. I have, and will compare this to a truck. Go out to your truck and start it up. Now drop it in neutral and I will disengage the reel. You floor the gas pedal and I will cast a Reef Hawg out as hard as I can. On the count of three you drop it into drive while flooring it and I will engage the reel with the bait still going out full tilt. Something has to give in your transmission and in the reel. In the reel it is going to be the clutch arm.

If you have an older reel and are having the engaging problem, it may be a spring or it may just be sticky. The 7000’s of today are the same as the 7000’s of yesteryear. The double arm main plate is what use to be in the 6500C’s and 5500C’s of the 1970’s and early 1980’s. It is now a single clutch arm assembly.

People are complaining that they are burning up gears on the Abu Garcia’s. The problem here is 9 out of 10 times they are using high-speed gears for buck tail fishing. This is a big NO, NO!!! The tolerances on the gears are so tight that the high pull from the buck tail will eat these gears up. It will start out as a buzz; progress to a grind and then to the reel locking up. 6.3:1 gears are great for top water, jerk baits, glide baits and twitch baits. Stick to the lower gear ratios for throwing buck tails. Take your truck again and pull your heavy boat. It is easier on the truck to drop it into a lower gearing, as it will work much less than in the higher gear.

People can say what they want about the reels. I know what makes these reels tick and can show you everything there is to know about these things. The biggest thing in Abu’s and any reel is to take care of it. Clean and lube it just like it was your car. Would you go all summer of heavy driving without changing the oil or doing basic maintenance to your vehicle? I did not think so.